Traditional Realistic Fur Tutorial
This tutorial is very bad and was made kind of quickly so you might not learn a lot.
Note- This is MY way of doing it. It does not exactly mirror real fur and still needs work.
Okay. Let's start with materials. No, you don't need a million dollars worth of supplies. All it takes is a pencil and a piece of paper. A little bit better stuff can add a little bit more depth in your drawing though. So what do I use? I personally use a 0.5 mechanical pencil (but I want to replace it with a 0.3) but you can use a well sharpened #2 pencil, a sketch pad, a 3B pencil, a sharpener, and, oh wait. That's it. I would recommend you at least have an eraser at the end of your pencil though. A drawing eraser probably works better but I don't use one.
Okay. Next we should get an understanding of some basics.
This is how I normally write and hold the pencil
This is how I hold it (pay attention to where) and how it looks when I write like this. You will notice that the strokes are longer, thinner, and lighter. This is because the higher you go on the pencil, the less control you have. I would recommend staying around the middle so you have some control while still being able to make nice strokes.
Next
Drawing fur isn't scribbling. You can do fur fast, but be sure to pick up your pencil in between strokes or it will end up looking too layered
Too layered
Be careful not to change shades with every layer of fur. And when I say layer of fur, don't think of it quite like layers on the paper only. Layers are also on top of your pencil marks so you can darken.
Be careful not to get too dark too quickly though unless it is for a certain shadow that requires it to be like that. Also be careful of filling up a space with one shade.
This is getting too dark in one spot. Gradually get lighter or darker unless it is a certain shadow.
Led Strokes
0.7 is good for beginning and works OK on short-hairs but as you get better you will probably be wanting a smaller led. 0.7 can pile up because the marks aren't very thin.
0.5 is what I used on Ace. I changed from 0.7 after not being completely satisfied with the fur on Chester. The strokes are thin and don't pile up as quickly but isn't quite thin enough for what I am looking for. It works great for the meantime but I will get a 0.3 as soon as I can.
HB or #2 pencil- Just be sure to keep these guys well sharpened
Tutorial
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1. Let's start by laying down some light strokes. Make sure to space in between, but don't make those spaces too big. You will learn what is best with a couple of practice rounds.
2. Next you can add more light fur underneath or you can darken some of this layer. I chose to darken the top of this layer. If you plan to darken almost all of this layer or a little bit more then I would recommend adding some more light fur beneath it and begin shading by layering darker fur on top then gradually getting lighter. This picture is bad but it shows a little bit.
3. I next added some more fur below and gradually got lighter. It isn't the best shadow but it works
4.Adding lighter layers below. The major problem with this is allowing too much space in between. I was using the 0.7 pencil and didn't want to get to close for fear of getting no spaces in between at all.
5. More light fur. I often work all around trying to keep the shades and picture together. Something I recommend is to use your finger to blend and make it less sharp. If you don't want a dirty finger then try a tissue
6. I start adding a darker layer below to show how you can add shadow without making it too layered. The right side is a little better and I could have done more work but I can't go back now.
Contrast
With a dark pencil or a mechanical pencil and a lot of pressure you can make a drawing more appealing. You can have contrast and a realistic picture without too much of a layered look. Try it out and find what works for you. It is kind of hard for me to explain in pictures.
Just layer over getting darker and darker.
I could have made the 3B's strokes a little thinner. Hmmm
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