Chapter 2:
I drew some more in my notebook before it got wrenched out of my hands. I let the idea of the blank space between my fingers into my brain which helped with my reaction.
"C'mon surf boy, come and get it." He was a tall, rather skinny 18 year old with bully instincts and a half shaved head with the side wave. He had big meaty hands and muscles that he used to gain power and destroy kids lives. He flipped through the pages of the book and smirked. I stood up and grabbed the book out of his hands with force that overpowered his own, from the many secret nights of midnight surfing. He stood aghast at my boldness. "Surf boy's got guts."
"Can you just leave me alone, I already get picked on by my teachers." They looked at each other and shrugged.
"That is pretty ironic we agree but we can't let you go. We have to keep our reputations at point."
"Why, why can't you just not care what people think?"
"Maybe that's what you do but without them," he pointed towards the school, "I'm nothing, merely a kid in a school. Not known or feared, that's is why I can not let you go." So instead of being let go which I never believed I would be, I was beaten, punched, kicked, thrown into walls, and into the tree. Instead of caring I walked home ready to face my father and ready to explain why I had come home early. But instead, again, I walked straight to my workhouse and grabbed my board and wetsuit. I ran down the grass avoiding windows and glass since neighbors knew my father. I skipped steps down the side of the cliff and walked onto the sand and threw myself against the board and into the water. I breathed in the ocean, not literally of course, and let the ocean into my veins. I felt the ocean into my skin and the board against my skin. The wind blew my hair with droplets of water.
As I got farther and farther past the breaker the waves started to get bigger and soon I had to work harder to get over the tops. I ducked underneath the low ones which didn't come to often but when they did, it was a refreshing awakening. I lifted my head from the dip and shook my hair dog like. As soon as I saw it I got excited. The speed picked up and I paddled and turned quickly. I waited and waited till I felt the right moment and I started the paddle to the shore. I started on my knees and then worked my way up onto my feet. As I got onto my feet it got easier to surf. I swerved along the surface of the wave. I twisted along doing cool whips with the board and then at the end I caught a barrel. I stretched out my hands and let my fingers skim the foam. I exited the barrel and dove off the board. I came in contact with the water and grabbed my board and swam towards the shore, allowing myself to get ready for the trouble I would be in when I got home.
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